Archive for the ‘tea seller’ Category

Searching for Tea in Berlin


2012
03.12
holding my breath till I find good tea

Not sure how to break this to you, but I’ll pull the proverbial band-aid away: I found a really nice tea shop/tearoom in Berlin. If you’ve been following my travels, you know that my prospects were not looking good. My last post was written as politely as I could manage, but I doubt I’d recommend anyone go there. Perhaps only if you were to buy tea and take it home with you.

Tee Tea Thé in the early evening

I should say that I did find Tee Tea Thé (Goltzstraße 2, 10781 Berlin 030/21752240) in Berlin-Schöneberg the first evening I arrived. They sell a variety of tea brands including Ronnefeldt and Pure Tea, even Celestial Seasonings, as well as a handful of others.

the shelves at Tee Tea Thé

When I stayed in a nice hotel in Stuttgart, I thought a bit about Ronnefeldt Tee when I wrote In defence of a brand of teabags. Up until then, I’d only had the tea-bagged version, but here was row after row of this loose-leaf tea on offer.

Most German tea companies that’ve been around for more than a century are located in harbour cities such as Hamburg or Bremen. The fact that Ronnefeldt was founded in 1823 in Frankfurt am Main (far away from the coast) is both curious and impressive to me, and this brand appears to be the tea that many good hotels worldwide choose to serve. I’ve asked it before: How did that come about?

I’d certainly like to get to know this tea brand even better. Frankfurt’s not so far away. Maybe the next time I’m there, I’ll arrange to visit Ronnefeldt’s headquarters.


Was even more curious about Pure Tea. This was also a brand I’d heard of, but not yet tried. I like the concept of all pure, unadulturated tea, so I got a package of their White Downy Oolong Longkou. I brewed it as Gong Fu as I could in a conventional glass pot, but I can’t wait to get home and try it in my Gaiwan. Huge light brown and green leaves with plenty of white tips, this Oolong has a both vegetal notes, as well as a taste of honey.

Tee Tea Thé isn’t only a tea shop, though. It’s a proper tearoom, as well. Plenty of reading material strewn about and people either chatting or studying diligently. If I lived near here, I could see this place becoming my second living room.

Teehandelshaus Benjowski



If rare tea is your thing, you really should consider going to the northern side of Berlin. It’s a bit odd for me to recommend Teehandelshaus Benjowski (Danziger Straße 3, 10435 Berlin 030/4403 ext. 7571), since when I went to visit the shop, they’d already closed for the weekend.




Nevertheless, I’d heard so many good things. If one can tell anything from peering in the window right after closing time, I can assure you that they have an astonishing collection of Yixing teapots. Everyone I talked to about this shop said the selection of tea was similarly impressive. 

Berliner Teesalon
But the experience that saved my tea search in the German capital was the Berliner Teesalon (Invalidenstraße 160, 10115 Berlin 030/2804 ext. 0660). The people running this shop clearly know what they’re doing. It’s not only a tea shop with quite an unbelievable selection of loose-leaf tea, but there are tables and plush chairs where you can sit  and really savour your time drinking tea. It’s an incredibly inviting atmosphere, and had I not shown up there half an hour before closing time, I’m positive I could’ve sat there the better part of an afternoon.
There’s all of the typical tea you’d expect: a few nice Keemuns, quite a selection of both Chinese and Japanese green tea. Yunnans, Darjeelings, Ceylons and Assams…I could go on, but instead I’ll link to their website here, and you can go look for yourself. It’s quite a list.
the salon of Berliner Teesalon
It was when I started chatting with the young woman running the shop that I found out about the good stuff. I’m often looking for a good way to get deeper into Pu-erh, so imagine my delight when I happened upon their Pu-erh cabinet. Gorgeous stuff in there.
the bar at Berliner Teesalon

Partially because I wouldn’t shut up about my Taiwanese Oolong obsession, she also showed me some Lagertee (stored tea) that I desperately wanted to try. There was also talk of Oolongs grown in Thailand - this is something I’d like to learn more about. I’ve certainly heard/read about Thai Oolongs, but not yet tried any.

tea gear at the Berliner Teesalon
Looking back at what I’ve written so far, I don’t think I’ve done justice to Berliner Teesalon‘s Japanese green tea selection. It was notably extensive. There’s also plenty of tea gear if you want to get into Matcha. That in addition to Yixing teapots, as well as more conventional Western teapots and tea cups. If I had a tea shop/tearoom, I hope I’d have such a nice selection. I couldn’t recommend this place more highly.
Finally, after quite a bit of walking over the several days I was in Berlin, I saved the Tadschikische Teehaus  ‎for last (Am Festungsgraben 1, 10117 Berlin 030/2041112). It’s centrally located, but you’d never know it was there unless you were looking for it. You can find it inside the Palais am Festungsgraben right off of Unter den Linden  - just a few hundred metres from the Museum Insel.
in the Tadschikische Teehaus
Until you go up the staircase and locate the room outside the tearoom where everyone’s taken off and left their shoes – until then, you can’t actually believe there’s a place here to drink tea. But there really is. Please persevere in your search. Finding the Tadschikische Teehaus a nice reward. No idea how authentic it is, but to me it looks like what a tea house in Tajikistan might.
sipping at the samovar

Although they have several tables, be prepared to sit on pillows on the floor. The tea is not only served in an assortment of funky teapots,  I had the Lommonossow-Tee (something purportedly from the ‘eastern banks of the Black Sea‘), but you can also order what’s called a Russian Teezeremonie (tea ceremony), which appear to be not only tea served in a samovar, but a selection of delicious things to munch on. Actually, there was a full menu that I didn’t even glance at, but I’m sure I would check it out if I were in Berlin more often.
ahhh…hot, delicious tea

you pay more for appearance


2011
09.10

I’m imagining someone shopping for tea in an excellent tea shop.  The customer is relatively new to tea, and has only recently gotten up the nerve to actually ask to smell the tea leaves before he decides which tea he’ll take home.


Although he has a selection of quite a few different sorts of tea, he’s been on a bit of an Assam kick lately.  He even forces himself to drink the other tea in his tea cabinet, but he’s a bit concerned that he’d actually reach for the Assam every single time (day and night) if he thought it would be ok.  He’s not at all sure it’s ok.  


This customer’s still quite uncertain when it comes to all of this tea and its paraphernalia.  He loves so much about what he’s learned about loose-leaf tea, but he has to force himself not to bolt out of the tea shop when there are too many other customers present or even worse when the tea seller asks him even the simplest questions.  


So he goes into the shop at times when he hopes no-one else is there.  Today’s just such a day, and the nice thing is that the tea seller is the only other person in the shop.  He asks for 100g of his latest favourite Assam, and asks about several others.  The guy behind the counter happily opens each canister for the tea to be smelled.  And then the question.  This question comes eventually.  Every tea seller knows it’ll appear sooner or later.


‘Why’s this tea more expensive than the others?’


Well, the easiest answer is that this tea demanded more at the tea auction.


Really?  Is that it?  That’s the only reason?

Actually, no.  There’re so many things that go into the pricing of tea, and it’s quite byzantine all the rules and machinations that are involved.  When it comes to this Assam, people seem willing to pay more if there are little golden tips on the leaves.


Don’t the little golden tips on the leaves make the tea taste better?


Not necessarily.  Interestingly, how they process the tea to create the golden colour might not even be the best way to process tea for the best taste.


Hm, that’s a bit odd.  This tea that’s entirely black might actually taste better than the more expensive one that’s black with little golden-tipped leaves.  Is that right?


It might.  It’s not as if all golden tea tastes bad.  And some tea with golden-tipped leaves can be really quite exquisite.


Well for the time being, I intend to buy my tea based upon how it smells and tastes not how it looks.


sidenote


This blogpost began when I considered a conversation I overheard on twitter between Geoff Norman (@lazy_literatus) & Michael J Coffey (@michaeljcoffey) about this very topic of whether the golden colour in the leaves actually made the tea taste better.  Here’s exactly what Michael said over on twitter:


Short answer: “best” flavor may require wide range of processing req’s, gold color req very specific processes.…Therefore, if you process for gold color, you limit what you can do with flavor…BUT people pay $$$ for color.’


Wanted to bring up the topic partially because I’m fascinated with the way tea is priced and also because I like explanations that are quirky and counter intuitive.  This one has plenty of both of these things.

what tea do I start with?


2011
08.20

(photo: a new morning-a new tea drinker)

Someone’s been interacting with me on twitter or even in the real world. They’ve politely tolerated my blathering on about tea. How no matter what the topic of conversation is that it somehow veers back to tea drinking.

Finally, the question comes up, ‘Ok, enough already. Go ahead and tell me. What tea should I start with?”

What an exciting prospect, but then I freeze up. Hm? What next?

Well, the first thing I ask is, ‘How do you take your coffee?’ Cream or milk? Sugar or not? What on earth does that tell me? Well, if you drink black coffee, then a delicate subtle tea just won’t do. Not at all.

The next question, ‘Do you like spicy foods?’ does the same thing.

I used to think that a decent Earl Grey was a nice gateway tea. That one might like the Bergamot oil early on and over time want to taste more of the tea and less of the flavouring. I’m not sure if I’d always go that direction anymore. If someone’s already enjoying Earl Grey then I won’t discourage it, but I’m not so thrilled about pushing someone in that direction. Not when there’s so much delicious tea out there.

If someone tends to eat spicier food, I think I’d recommend a malty Assam. If not, a subtle Ceylon. Yes, ok. But which one?

Go to your local tea seller and ask what sorts of Assam they have. Or what about their selection of Ceylon?

Ask to smell the tea leaves. Any decent tea seller will be thrilled that you’re interested. Don’t be shy asking how much a te costs and definitely don’t assume that a higher price means better tea. It simply doesn’t.

I know this answer is very simple. Maybe too simple. But if you’re new to tea (or good tea), you’ll likely appreciate the simplest of answers. Please let me know how it goes.

What about you other tea obsessives? How do you answer the question posed above? Someone shows even a hint of curiosity about trying decent tea. Which direction do you send them?